Newborn kittens and puppies receive complete nutrition from their mothers’ milk for the first four weeks of life. As they gradually begin to eat on their own, they will be fully weaned after a few more weeks. During the first weeks of life, body weight may double or triple, and this rapid growth will continue—although at a gradually decreasing rate—until maturity. Large amounts of energy and nutrients are required in balanced quantities to support this spectacular growth.
Here are some tips for feeding puppies and kittens:
1. Kittens are best fed mom's milk; it's 100-percent perfect for their needs. However, if the mother is ill or doesn’t produce enough milk, or if the kittens are found as orphans, it is necessary to feed them a commercial milk replacer.
2. Generally, orphaned or hand-fed kittens can be offered moistened kitten food at about three weeks of age. Use a commercial milk replacer to moisten the food, and gradually reduce the amount of milk replacer you use, until the kittens are eating dry kitten food at about five or six weeks of age.
3. At first, curious kittens will probably want to play with their food rather than eat it, but the youngsters will soon catch on as they watch mom eat. By the time kittens are five to six weeks old, they should be nibbling on dry food consistently. This process of gradually introducing kitten food is important in training the cats to eat when they are weaned.
4. After weaning, kittens can be fed free-choice—dry or nutrient-dense kitten-formula canned food. Make sure fresh water is available at all times.
5. Most mama cats will suckle their kittens until about eight weeks of age. By this time, 80- to 90-percent of the kitten's total nutrient intake should be from kitten food. Kittens need large amounts of energy—about two to three times that of an adult cat. Kittens also need about 30 percent of their total energy from protein. Make sure the food you offer is specifically formulated for kittens; your pet will need to eat kitten-formula food until she reaches maturity, at about one year.
6. Canines generally begin eating puppy food at about three or four weeks, and are completely weaned by seven or eight weeks. They require up to twice the energy intake of adults and, depending on the breed, will need to have 25- to 30-percent protein.
7. As with kittens, puppies should have puppy food available prior to weaning. These meals should begin when the pups are three to four weeks old; start with small quantities. Puppies often play in their food when it is first introduced, but they will quickly learn what to do with it! By the time the pups are ready to wean at six to eight weeks old, they should be eating their dry food consistently.
8. Small breeds of dogs reach mature body weight in nine to twelve months, while giant breeds may not be mature until they reach their second birthday.
9. Just who are we calling SMALL? Small-breed dogs are 20 pounds or less. As pups, they can often be fed free-choice. When food is readily available, most small-breed dogs will develop good eating habits and not become overweight. If you have other pets, you should probably feed your small-breed dog by the portion control method.
10. Most medium-breed puppies (adult size between 20 and 50 pounds) and all large or giant breed pups (more than 50 pounds as adults) are best fed with the portion control method.
BONUS! Special Concerns about Feeding Large- and Giant-Breed Puppies
If puppies are allowed to overeat, they may consume too many calories and too much calcium, grow too rapidly and develop bone growth problems. In breeds that are prone to these diseases, such as many large and giant breeds, overfeeding can lead to an increased frequency of hypertrophic osteodystrophy (HOD), osteochondrosis (OCD) and hip dysplasia.
Clinical signs often seen with bone growth disease include bowing of the front legs. Sometimes, these signs are misdiagnosed as calcium deficiency (also known as rickets). Radiographs are crucial for an accurate diagnosis. Adding more calcium to the diets of dogs with HOD, OCD or hip dysplasia will actually worsen the condition—and may result in permanent damage.
It is important to aim for a slower rate of growth with large and giant breed puppies. Do not overfeed, or try to push the growth rate too fast. Controlled feeding of a balanced diet specifically made for large- and giant-breed puppies facilitates optimal skeletal development. Remember, the adult size of a dog is determined genetically—not by how fast the animal grows.
Saturday, December 30, 2006
Friday, December 29, 2006
Liquid Potpourri Packs A Painful Punch
Want a fresh and fragrant home? Before setting out that delicious-smelling potpourri simmer pot, please take heed. Many liquid potpourris contain essential oils and detergents that could prove hazardous to your furry companions, based on an analysis of calls to the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center.
According to the ASPCA’s Dr. Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist and senior vice president, the essential oils found in many of these products can cause irritation of the skin, gastrointestinal tract and mucous membranes. More significant injuries are typically a result of thermal burns or exposure to a specific type of detergent. Says Hansen, “A class of detergents known as cationics is usually responsible for severe ulceration of the membranes of the mouth, throat and gastrointestinal tract. Where there is contact with the skin, redness, swelling and extremely painful lesions can appear.” Symptoms of these exposures include drooling, vomiting, depression, metabolic disturbances and difficulty breathing from fluid on the lungs.
Although 10 percent of the liquid potpourri poisoning cases managed by the ASPCA since 2001 have included life-threatening effects, most animals make a full recovery if treated promptly. “However, it is important to note that treatment can be very extensive and may involve a lengthy hospitalization,” says Hansen.
And feline caretakers, please take note—cats are more likely to be at risk than dogs. “This is most likely because cats have greater access to the simmer pots, which are usually kept on countertops or other high-level surfaces,” explains Hansen. Most exposures occur when cats lap up heated liquid from the simmer pot, or when liquid spills on their fur from a leaky container.
To avoid exposing your pet to the dangers of liquid potpourri, ASPCA experts offer the following tips:
- Place potpourri simmer pots and unused liquid in rooms where pets cannot gain access.
- Consider using relatively safer alternatives, such as plug-in or solid air fresheners. (Do take care to use these in out-of-reach locations as well.)
- If you suspect your pet has been exposed to liquid potpourri, please call your veterinarian or the APCC's emergency hotline at (888) 426-4435 for round-the-clock telephone assistance.
According to the ASPCA’s Dr. Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist and senior vice president, the essential oils found in many of these products can cause irritation of the skin, gastrointestinal tract and mucous membranes. More significant injuries are typically a result of thermal burns or exposure to a specific type of detergent. Says Hansen, “A class of detergents known as cationics is usually responsible for severe ulceration of the membranes of the mouth, throat and gastrointestinal tract. Where there is contact with the skin, redness, swelling and extremely painful lesions can appear.” Symptoms of these exposures include drooling, vomiting, depression, metabolic disturbances and difficulty breathing from fluid on the lungs.
Although 10 percent of the liquid potpourri poisoning cases managed by the ASPCA since 2001 have included life-threatening effects, most animals make a full recovery if treated promptly. “However, it is important to note that treatment can be very extensive and may involve a lengthy hospitalization,” says Hansen.
And feline caretakers, please take note—cats are more likely to be at risk than dogs. “This is most likely because cats have greater access to the simmer pots, which are usually kept on countertops or other high-level surfaces,” explains Hansen. Most exposures occur when cats lap up heated liquid from the simmer pot, or when liquid spills on their fur from a leaky container.
To avoid exposing your pet to the dangers of liquid potpourri, ASPCA experts offer the following tips:
- Place potpourri simmer pots and unused liquid in rooms where pets cannot gain access.
- Consider using relatively safer alternatives, such as plug-in or solid air fresheners. (Do take care to use these in out-of-reach locations as well.)
- If you suspect your pet has been exposed to liquid potpourri, please call your veterinarian or the APCC's emergency hotline at (888) 426-4435 for round-the-clock telephone assistance.
Thursday, December 28, 2006
New Dog In The Home
Today's domestic dog must be part of a stable family and feel safe. Most behavioral problems occur when the dog is confused about how to act or behave in different situations such as in your home or out on a walk.
It is recommended that you keep your dog confined (in a crate or in a room) no matter his age for at least the first month in your home. This will allow him to settle in more comfortably and adapt to your lifestyle. At the same time, confinement or crate training will reduce such misbehaviors as chewing and separation anxiety.
Here are a few general rules to help prevent misbehaviors when you bring your dog home:
HOUSEBREAKING - Almost all dogs are naturally clean animals, meaning that the dog will not eliminate where he sleeps. If you keep your dog in a cage or room that is too large, he will eliminate in one corner and sleep in another. With this in mind, keeping your dog in a confinement area large enough to turn around and lie down in, he will be motivated to hold it.
ELIMINATING FREQUENCY - The general rule for elimination is the dog's age plus one. (For example - the dog is 3 months old. This means that he can technically hold it for 4 hours.) The dog will need to eliminate 15 to 20 minutes after eating, as soon as he wakes up and during or after playing. Most dogs can hold it for up to 10 hours after the age of 1.
FEEDING - A dog should only be fed twice a day, morning and evening. Feeding your dog table food could give him health problems, such as diarrhea, as well as behavioral problems, such as begging for food at the table.
CREATING THE LEADER ROLE IN YOUR HOUSE - To become the Alpha leader in your house, you must practice some basic commands with your dog:
1. You must always enter the house before your dog.
2. You must always eat before your dog.
3. You must always sleep at a higher level than your dog.
GAMES - Play biting or puppy nipping should not be allowed or encouraged. This allows the biting to become harder and more painful as the dog gets older. Fetch is a highly recommended game. Keep two balls on you. Throw one of the balls. When the dog comes back with the first ball, show him the second ball so he will drop the first ball. When the first ball is dropped, you may throw the second ball. Repeat as often as you like or until the dog begins to show signs of boredom. When the game is played this way, the game will not turn into a game of tug of war, therefore creating less of a chance of developing possible behavioral problems in the future.
DISCIPLINE - Disciplining your dog 2 seconds after the misbehavior is too late. You must catch him in the act. You must never hit the dog. Hitting the dog may make him more aggressive toward strangers or other members of your family.
CHEWING - The dog should have many different bones and toys to chew on. If you see your dog chewing on an inappropriate item, simply say "No" and direct his attention to an appropriate toy or bone.
It is recommended that you keep your dog confined (in a crate or in a room) no matter his age for at least the first month in your home. This will allow him to settle in more comfortably and adapt to your lifestyle. At the same time, confinement or crate training will reduce such misbehaviors as chewing and separation anxiety.
Here are a few general rules to help prevent misbehaviors when you bring your dog home:
HOUSEBREAKING - Almost all dogs are naturally clean animals, meaning that the dog will not eliminate where he sleeps. If you keep your dog in a cage or room that is too large, he will eliminate in one corner and sleep in another. With this in mind, keeping your dog in a confinement area large enough to turn around and lie down in, he will be motivated to hold it.
ELIMINATING FREQUENCY - The general rule for elimination is the dog's age plus one. (For example - the dog is 3 months old. This means that he can technically hold it for 4 hours.) The dog will need to eliminate 15 to 20 minutes after eating, as soon as he wakes up and during or after playing. Most dogs can hold it for up to 10 hours after the age of 1.
FEEDING - A dog should only be fed twice a day, morning and evening. Feeding your dog table food could give him health problems, such as diarrhea, as well as behavioral problems, such as begging for food at the table.
CREATING THE LEADER ROLE IN YOUR HOUSE - To become the Alpha leader in your house, you must practice some basic commands with your dog:
1. You must always enter the house before your dog.
2. You must always eat before your dog.
3. You must always sleep at a higher level than your dog.
GAMES - Play biting or puppy nipping should not be allowed or encouraged. This allows the biting to become harder and more painful as the dog gets older. Fetch is a highly recommended game. Keep two balls on you. Throw one of the balls. When the dog comes back with the first ball, show him the second ball so he will drop the first ball. When the first ball is dropped, you may throw the second ball. Repeat as often as you like or until the dog begins to show signs of boredom. When the game is played this way, the game will not turn into a game of tug of war, therefore creating less of a chance of developing possible behavioral problems in the future.
DISCIPLINE - Disciplining your dog 2 seconds after the misbehavior is too late. You must catch him in the act. You must never hit the dog. Hitting the dog may make him more aggressive toward strangers or other members of your family.
CHEWING - The dog should have many different bones and toys to chew on. If you see your dog chewing on an inappropriate item, simply say "No" and direct his attention to an appropriate toy or bone.
Monday, December 18, 2006
Pets As Presents
The following guidlines are provided by the ASPCA to use when choosing pets for your children:
Under 3 - Focus on introducing Baby to your current pets. It's not appropriate to bring in a new pet at this point.
3 to 5 - Guinea pigs are a good choice, as they like to be held, seldom bite and will whistle when excited or happy. Your child can help fill the water bottle or food dish.
5 to 10 - Choose shelf pets such as mice, rats or fish. Kids can help clean cages with adult help, though you should always check to ensure that pets have food and water and cages are secured.
10 to 13 - Your child is now ready for the responsibility of a dog, cat or rabbit. Your child can help feed the pet, walk the dog, clean the rabbit cage and clean the cat litter, but you should always check to be sure pets have everything they need. Participation in dog training classes is an excellent learning opportunity for children.
14 to 17 - You child may have more activities competing for his or her time and less time to spend with a pet. Certain species of birds or aquariums are a good choice. Remember, you will have the pet once they leave home to go to college.
Friday, December 01, 2006
Teaching Your Dog To Retrieve
Many dog trainers and breeders believe the healthiest and most beneficial exercise for a dog is retrieving. Not only that, but both dogs and their owners appear to greatly enjoy "playing fetch." The most common image of this mutally pleasurable game is the dog furiously and happily racing after a thrown stick, rubber ball or frisbee.
Generally, there are three methods of training a dog to retrieve. One, which is more widely used and accepted by pet owners is through general playing. The second method is called the "forcing method" and the third is a combination of these two. Dog owners will have to judge for themselves which method works best for their individual dog.
Also remember that retrieval training should not be the first step of dog training. Long before you attempt this kind of discipline, you should have already housebroken your dog and taught him to "sit," "come," "stay" and the other basics. If these have not been mastered at an early stage, then trying to teach the animal to retrieve will only tend to frustrate you and confuse the dog.
Generally, there are three methods of training a dog to retrieve. One, which is more widely used and accepted by pet owners is through general playing. The second method is called the "forcing method" and the third is a combination of these two. Dog owners will have to judge for themselves which method works best for their individual dog.
Also remember that retrieval training should not be the first step of dog training. Long before you attempt this kind of discipline, you should have already housebroken your dog and taught him to "sit," "come," "stay" and the other basics. If these have not been mastered at an early stage, then trying to teach the animal to retrieve will only tend to frustrate you and confuse the dog.
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